Gastropolis: Food and New York City
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Whether you're digging into a slice of cherry cheesecake, burning your tongue on a piece of fiery Jamaican jerk chicken, or slurping the broth from a juicy soup dumpling, eating in New York City is a culinary adventure unlike any other in the world.An irresistible sampling of the city's rich food heritage, Gastropolis explores the personal and historical relationship between New Yorkers and food. Beginning with the origins of cuisine combinations, such as Mt. Olympus bagels and Puerto Rican lasagna, the book describes the nature of food and drink before the arrival of Europeans in 1624 and offers a history of early farming practices. Essays trace the function of place and memory in Asian cuisine, the rise of Jewish food icons, the evolution of food enterprises in Harlem, the relationship between restaurant dining and identity, and the role of peddlers and markets in guiding the ingredients of our meals. They share spice-scented recollections of Brooklyn, Queens, and the Bronx, and colorful vignettes of the avant-garde chefs, entrepreneurs, and patrons who continue to influence the way New Yorkers eat.Touching on everything from religion, nutrition, and agriculture to economics, politics, and psychology, Gastropolis tells a story of immigration, amalgamation, and assimilation. This rich interplay between tradition and change, individual and society, and identity and community could happen only in New York.
Foreword Michael Lomonaco Lomonaco, Michael Fusion City: From Mt. Olympus Bagels to Puerto Rican Lasagna and Beyond Cara De Silva De Silva, Cara 1 Pt. I Places1 The Lenapes: In Search of Pre-European Foodways in the Greater New York Region Anne Mendelson Mendelson, Anne 152 The Food and Drink of New York from 1624 to 1898 Andrew F. Smith Smith, Andrew F. 343 Digging for Food in Early New York City Nan A. Rothschild Rothschild, Nan A. 504 My Little Town: A Brooklyn Girl's Food Voice Annie Hauck-Lawson Hauck-Lawson, Annie 68 Pt. II People5 The Empire of Food: Place, Memory, and Asian "Ethnic Cuisines" Martin F. Manalansan IV Manalansan, Martin F., IV 936 The Culinary Seasons of My Childhood Jessica B. Harris Harris, Jessica B. 1087 The Chefs, the Entrepreneurs, and Their Patrons: The Avant-Garde Food Scene in New York City Fabio Parasecoli Parasecoli, Fabio 1168 Chow Fun City: Three Centuries of Chinese Cuisine in New York City Harley Spiller Spiller, Harley 132 Pt. III Trade9 Hawkers and Gawkers: Peddling and Markets in New York City Suzanne Wasserman Wasserman, Suzanne 15310 Asphalt Terroir Joy Santlofer Santlofer, Joy 17411 The Soul of a Store Mark Russ Federman Federman, Mark Russ 19512 Livin' la Vida Sabrosa: Savoring Latino New York Ramona Lee Perez Perez, Ramona Lee Babette Audant Audant, Babette 209 Pt. IV Symbols13 Cosa Mangia Oggi Annie Rachelle Lanzillotto Lanzillotto, Annie Rachelle 23314 From the Big Bagel to the Big Roti? The Evolution of New York City's Jewish Food Icons Jennifer Berg Berg, Jennifer 25215 Cooking Up Heritage in Harlem Damian M. Mosley Mosley, Damian M. 27416Eating Out, Eating American: New York Restaurant Dining and Identity Mitchell Davis Davis, Mitchell 29317 Hungry City Janet Poppendieck Poppendieck, Janet J. C. Dwyer Dwyer, J. C. 308 Contributors 327 Index 331
